Current Fish & Oyster sits in downtown Salt Lake City, a city known more for its stunning mountain views and world-class skiing than its seafood scene. But don’t let that fool you.

The halibut, for instance, is a revelation. Served with a delicate crab bisque sauce, it’s so tender and flavorful, you’ll swear it swam all the way from Alaska just to land on your plate.

Southern dishes are a vital part of American cuisine, from hush puppies to ham hocks and beignets to barbecue. It's ...